History of Glacier Park

According to archeological evidence, Native Americans arrived in the Glacier area some 10,000 years ago. The earliest settlers with lineage to current tribes were the Salish, Flathead, Shoshone and Cheyenne. The Blackfeet arrived around the beginning of the 18th century and soon dominated the eastern slopes of what later became the park, as well as the Great Plains immediately to the east. The park region provided the Blackfeet shelter from the harsh winter winds of the plains, and game meat to supplement their traditional bison hunts. Today, the Blackfeet Indian Reservation borders the park in the east, while the Flathead Indian Reservation is located west and south of the park. In 1855 the Lame Bull Treaty established the Blackfeet Reservation. The Reservation included the eastern area of what is currently Glacier Park up to the Continental Divide. To the Blackfeet, the mountains of this area, especially Chief Mountain and the region in the southeast at Two Medicine, were considered the "Backbone of the World" and were frequented during vision quests. The current boundary between Glacier Park and the Blackfeet Reservation was established in 1895 when Chief White Calf of the Blackfeet authorized the sale of the mountain area, some 800,000 acres (3,200 km2), to the U.S. government for $1.5 million.

While exploring the Marias River in 1806, the Lewis and Clark Expedition came within 50 miles (80 km) of the area that is now the park. After 1850, additional explorations helped shape a better understanding of the area that later became the park. George Bird Grinnell came to the region in the late 1880s. He was so inspired by the scenery that he spent the next two decades working to establish a national park. In 1901, Grinnell wrote a description of the region, in which he referred to it as the "Crown of the Continent". Grinnells’ efforts to protect the land make him a major contributor to the national park cause. A few years after Grinnell first visited, Henry L. Stimson and two companions, including a Blackfeet Indian, climbed the steep east face of Chief Mountain in 1892.

In 1891, the Great Northern Railway crossed the Continental Divide at Marias Pass (5,213 ft/1,589 m), along the southern boundary of the park., The Great Northern Railway soon advertised the splendors of the region to the public In an effort to stimulate use of the railroad. The company lobbied the United States Congress, and in 1900, the park was designated as a forest preserve. Under the forest preserve designation mining was still allowed, however it was not successful commercially. Meanwhile, advocates of further protection of the region kept up their efforts, and in 1910, under the influence of George Bird Grinnell, Henry L. Stimson and the railroad, a bill was introduced into the U.S. Congress which changed the regions designation from a forest reserve to a national park. The bill was signed into law by President William Howard Taft on May 11, 1910. The forest reserve supervisor, Fremont Nathan Haines, managed the Park's resources as the first acting superintendent from May to August of 1910. William Logan was appointed the Park's first superintendent in August 1910.

In the 1910s, The Great Northern Railway, under the supervision of president Louis W. Hill, built a number of hotels and chalets throughout the park to promote tourism. These buildings, constructed and operated by a Great Northern subsidiary called the Glacier Park Company, were modeled on Swiss architecture as part of Hill's plan to portray Glacier as "America's Switzerland". Vacationers took pack trips on horseback between the lodges or utilized the seasonal stagecoach routes to gain access to the Many Glacier area in the northeast.

The chalets, built between 1910 and 1913, included Belton, St. Mary, Going-to-the-Sun, Many Glacier, Two Medicine, Sperry, Granite Park, Cut Bank, and Gunsight Lake. Adjacent to the park on its east side the railway built Glacier Park Lodge, and the Many Glacier Hotel on the east shore of Swiftcurrent Lake. Louis Hill personally selected the sites for all the buildings, choosing each for its dramatic scenic backdrop and views. Another developer, John Lewis, built the Lewis Glacier Hotel on Lake McDonald in 1913–1914. The Great Northern Railway bought the hotel in 1930, and it was later renamed Lake McDonald Lodge. Accessible only by trail some of the chalets were in remote backcountry locations. Today, only Sperry, Granite Park, and Belton Chalets are still in operation, while a building formerly belonging to Two Medicine Chalet is now Two Medicine Store. The surviving chalets and hotel buildings within the park are now designated as National Historic Landmarks. In total, 350 buildings and structures within the park are listed on the National Register of Historic Places, including ranger stations, backcountry patrol cabins, fire lookouts, and concession facilities.

After visitors began to travel more by automobiles and the park was better established, work was begun on the 53 mile (85 km) long Going-to-the-Sun Road, completed in 1932. Also known as the Sun Road, the road bisects the park and is the only road that ventures deep into the park, going over the Continental Divide at Logan Pass (6,646 feet, 2025 m) at the midway point. The Sun Road is also listed on the National Register of Historic Places, and in 1985 was designated a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark. Another route, along the southern boundary between the park and National Forests is U.S. Route 2, which crosses the Continental Divide at Marias Pass and connects the communities of West Glacier and East Glacier. During the 1930s, the Civilian Conservation Corps assisted in the development of many of the park's trails and campgrounds. The increase in motor vehicle traffic through the park during the 1930s also resulted in the construction of new concession facilities at Swiftcurrent and Rising Sun, both designed for automobile-based tourism. These early "auto camps" are now also listed on the National Register.